Truffled Taters

Maddie LaKind  

Is there anything more synonymous with the pure pleasure of eating than a good French fry? Whether you’re a shoestring supporter, crinkle-crazed, waffle wild, crazy for chili cheese, or swoon over sweet potato, you can’t really go wrong with a good deep fried potato—in any form. It was with this mentality that I approached my dish selection for this week after a serendipitous spotting on Facebook.

While breezing through my newsfeed one lazy evening before bed, I saw a Zingerman’s co-worker of mine post a status raving over the truffled french fries at The Jolly Pumpkin. Given my knowledge of this person’s immense obsession with truffle salt—a best seller in the retail section of Zingerman’s deli—I trusted his word.

Despite a few prior visits, the Jolly Pumpkin has never maintained much of a presence on my Ann Arbor radar, at least for their food selection. I’ve enjoyed several great brews there time and time again, but the lunch and dinner selections are nothing to write home about. However, I knew my co-worker wouldn’t post just any old food claim online so I figured I might as well give the truffled fries a fair shot.

Following a grueling and drawn out day of school last week, my best friend and I made the trek to the Pumpkin, ready to indulge in a nice early evening snack. Upon first spotting of our waitress, we ordered the fries right out the gate, eager to get them to the table as quickly as possible.

A mere 6-7 minutes later, they arrived, piled high in a dramatic metal cone lined with parchment paper. Resembling a very similar shape and feel to McDonalds’ prized fry, these tats were the perfect thin, finger-length size that allowed for maximum pick-up capabilities.

Although this may seem pretty standard thus far, the aroma and unmatched flavor of the Pumpkin’s truffled fries put them a cut above the rest. Simply sprinkled with truffle salt and chopped rosemary, these babies smelled like a forager’s dream—woodsy, and wonderfully rustic.

Biting into my first truffled fry was like entering a game of pinball. First you get that classic, rich potato flavor. Then—bam—the rosemary flavor starts to emerge, fresh and fragrant. Then—boom—the truffle oil sneaks up on you, releasing that unmatched soft, delicate mushroom flavor. And finally, when you thought you got the full experience—bang—that perfect textural contrast of crunchy fry exterior and tender, fluffy center hits you, lulling you into a state of complete snack submission.

If that hasn’t already triggered your salivary glands, maybe this will do the trick. Presented on the side of the cone is a small bowl of luscious, tangy garlic aioli—a sauce composed of egg yolks, butter, garlic, black pepper and rosemary. While ketchup is always a winner, there is no better culinary gem than a proper aioli. Rich, a bit peppery, super garlicky, and oh so velvety smooth—the absolute best accompaniment to such a beautifully prepared French fry.

As I think is evident by all 20+ adjectives I just used to describe them, these fries are nothing short of amazing. I can assure you that they will not last longer than 7 maybe 8 minutes tops if you’re lucky. Try to pace yourself—I dare you. It is much easier said than done.

Jolly Pumpkin, while I have not held the best experiences with your normal dinner fare, your exemplary truffled French fries restored my faith. I will dream of those flawless mushroom and rosemary scented potatoes until my next stroll down Main street.

Also, thanks to my co-worker Max for being the unknowing puppeteer behind this whole operation—definitely the best thing to come out of Facebook in a long time.

The Jolly Pumpkin 311 South Main Street Ann Arbor, MI 48104