It’s Not Just Red or White: Cabernet Sauvignon

Lizzy Freed  

Some grapes are finicky, only growing in select locations and needing just the right circumstances to produce high-quality wine. Then some others, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, are what I like to call troopers.

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most well known grape varietals on Earth, and with good reason. It is produced in very diverse climates, from the frigid north of Michigan to the warmer soils of northern Argentina. It has even been successfully grown in the Gobi Desert in China (though the real thanks should be paid to their irrigation system, which is a topic for another day).

In 1997, UC Davis researchers found that Cabernet Sauvignon is a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc; it’s a blend that can be dated back to the 1600’s. Originally form the Medoc region of Bordeaux, the tricky little grape has now found its way into nearly every wine region of the world.

It began to gain international popularity in the 1900’s, moving from France and Spain to South America and then the United States. Now it is arguably the most-cultivated wine grape in the world, though some say Merlot has it beat while others vote Grenache.

In any case, there is a lot of it. This probably comes from its popularity rather than its resilience, because although it seems to be the easiest grape to grow, it is actually a bit temperamental. I call it a trooper because it can grow in a number of places… it just doesn’t necessarily like to. Cabernet Sauvignon needs a lot of sunlight to fully mature, which means that it needs a longer growing season than some places can offer. The cost that goes into producing the grape shows in their cost as well—a good Cab is not cheap.

Nowadays, people are saying that Cabernet Sauvignon is old school and not as trendy as a hot new Argentine Malbec, but no matter what anyone says, it’s still my favorite. It’s one of the most complex wines you can drink (which may factor into the fact it’s so expensive to produce…), and is, in my opinion, timeless. It just feels classic—like dad’s old Cadillac. When I think wine, I think Cabernet.

It’s high in tannins, which as we know are not a taste, but a sensation in the mouth. There’s generally a lot of fruit flavor, especially in California Cabs, and earthy or tobacco tones. A nice bottle can age for a pretty long time, as the tannins can mellow into a more complex and rounded flavor, given the opportunity.

Generally speaking, Cabernet Sauvignon goes well with peppery red meat and fatty dishes that can stand up to the flavor. Herbed lamb chops or a moderate cheese would be tantalizing, or a big juicy hamburger with fried mushrooms. Whatever you do, just don’t try it with chocolate—the mellow flavor will get lost in the tannins.

Because of its complex deep flavors, I find Cabernet Sauvignon to be a treat that can be just as enjoyable sans food. So grab a bottle and a couple of friends if you want, and enjoy this “no longer trendy” drink—it’s a classic, so that could be hipster given the right circumstances.

Cheers!

Guide to Cabernet Sauvignon Red Wine
New Bordeaux

It's Not Just Red or White: Malbec

Lizzy Freed  

After exploring Carménère, it’s only fitting that we look at its biggest South American competitor: Malbec.

Now it isn’t that these two wines are competitive. Rather, it’s the countries. Chile and Argentina are home to some of the best wines in the world, and they both know it. However, there is no denying that the Argentines really have mastered their Malbec.

Although I am focusing on the South American version of this varietal, a brief history will show that its roots go much deeper than just Mendoza.

A French agronomist named Miguel Pouget brought cuttings of this hearty grape to Argentina in 1868, as the local population was trying to better their wine production. The grape flourished—the altitude helped to fully develop the somewhat picky grape without over-ripening or rotting. It also added complexity at different elevations, which produced different flavors that could then be blended to produce unique, but still 100%, Malbec varietals (Hello, Mendoza!).

Malbec was originally used to blend with other varietals in the Bordeaux region of France, and infrequently left to its own accords. The blight of phylloxera certainly didn’t help its popularity, and few vineyards attempted to revamp their product in France. To make matters even worse, there was a horrible frost in 1956 that really halted its production. Growers then decided to switch to safer varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. It is still produced in its raw, unblended form in Cahors, a town in Southwestern France, and many other wineries use it for blends.

So let’s talk more about these flavors. The drinking is where it really gets fun (unless of course you’re learning the history while sipping!). Malbec is usually described as having dark berry flavors, such as blackberries and currants. It has some spice as well: cinnamon, nutmeg, or black pepper. You can find some—in fact, you should seek some—that are a little earthier, with flavors like wet sand or dirt. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it.

It’s a great wine to sip on solo, but arguably better paired with grilled or spicy food, especially meats. The deep flavor and crisp acidity are nicely contrasted with a charcoal taste you’ll get with grilled pork. It’s also good with pasta dishes; I recommend trying a spicy tomato sauce with tortellini, as I like the strong wine to have a strong dish to stand up to. If you’re a cheese lover, Malbec washes down a hard manchego really well.

As far as prices go, Malbec is generally quite reasonable. It’s still growing in popularity, and thus isn’t as overpriced as some of the veteran varietals. As for recommendations, I would try anything from Argentina. If it’s from Mendoza, you shouldn’t be disappointed. I’ve been able to find some cheap, and quite tasty, Malbec at the local grocer. One I would buy again is the Cupcake brand: They do a wonderful job, and distribute all over the U.S.

If you are interested in finding it at a local retailer, take a look at their website.

Some of my white-wine-loving friends swear that they will only drink reds if it’s a Malbec. So, if you generally aren’t a red wine drinker, I say you take your palate by the reins and introduce it to something new.

Historical information:
Argentinian Malbec Wine: A Guide to the Grape's History and Unique Style
Malbec Wine Grapes' Flavor Character History

It’s Not Just Red or White: Carménère

Lizzy Freed  

Every bottle of wine tells a story. It’s amazing to think that each one is unique, emitting its own experience and flavor. Though subtle, these differences form a special relationship between wine and drinker.

Wine has a rich history that goes as deep as its flavor. We all have a favorite wine (or three) for different reasons. I would like to introduce a close friend of mine, who goes by the name of Carménère. Although it is not my favorite wine to drink (though close), I do find it to have the most interesting history.

I won’t dive too far into the past, because it is a topic worthy of many more words, but let’s begin with the onset of the phylloxera louse, which devastated the vineyards of Europe in the 1870s. This nasty creature was inadvertently taken from America to Europe on the grape vines for experimental purposes: Europeans wanted to see if these American vines would flourish in their soil. Unbeknownst to them, the American vines were immune to this louse—European vines were not. Such is life! But, as my mother always says: when the going gets tough, the tough gets going! And that they did. Botanists discovered that they could take the European varietals (Vitis vinifera) and grow them on top of the American rootstock.

In all of this madness, this disaster, many vines and livelihoods were lost. Most varietals were saved, but some, including Carménère, were thought to be extinct.

Meanwhile, the wine industry was beginning to boom. Globalization, which hurt many during this period, was helping to spread the allure of viticulture.

Our South American gem this evening, Chile, has a thrilling wine history. Its shining glory is Carménère. Presumed gone forever by horticulturists around the globe, the wine world was shocked by a discovery made by French botanist Jean-Michel Boursiquot: Carménère was alive. The leaf shape is extremely similar to that of a Merlot plant, and so they had understandably misidentified it for years. The Chilean growers had unknowingly been aiding in the reunion of this special grape with the world.

Chile is a very isolated country, with the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Andes mountains on the other. This created a natural barrier from the horrors the rest of the world experienced with phylloxera.

Like Malbec to Argentina, Carménère quickly became an important part of Chile’s culture. They are understandably very proud of their discovery. Their wine industry has become increasingly competitive in the world market, partially thanks to this somewhat fickle grape.

Carménère is a lively wine. Seriously, that is the best way to describe it. It wakes up your taste buds with bright fruit flavors that just don’t exist in most wines. Its South American sister, Malbec, has this fruit-forward taste as well but in a sweeter and less exciting way. Carménère is often described as having plum, blackberry, and pepper flavors.

Another great thing about Carménère is the price, which is a common plus to buying Chilean wines. Though they are some of the most competitive in the market, they never break your bank. Some may say it’s because Chileans don’t know just how impressive the world thinks their wine is, but I think it says a lot about their culture. To me, it says, “we want everyone to enjoy our wine, and lots of it.”

I highly recommend Viña Concha y Toro’s version. It is always a safe way to go, as it comes by way of Chile’s biggest international distributor. So grab a glass and enjoy Carménère the way Chileans do: Bakán!

Wine Pairings: A Symphony

Lizzy Freed  

“Wine makes a symphony of a good meal.” –Fernande Garvin, The Art of French Cooking

All right fellow wine snobs, now that we all have a basic understanding of the process behind this wonderful drink, let’s get to the really fun part! When wine meets food.

I often remember Ted’s words from Queer Eye For the Straight Guy (it’s a great show!), “If you took a bite of that chocolate and then a sip of this Chardonnay, it would be kind of like brushing your teeth and then drinking orange juice…it would not go well together. But we also have this Semillon—it’s as sweet as that chocolate, and it can stand up to that chocolate.”

Matching wine and food should always be fun, and no matter what you’ve been told, it’s not as complicated as you think. Although there are some traditional pairs, the truth is that it is your meal, and if you like the taste of a robust Cab Sauv with a delicate whitefish, you can do it! But assuming that you, like most, would find the clashing flavors a bit overwhelming, I would like to offer some basic tools to have handy for your next dinner party.

Wine has different smells and flavors, just like food. Some of these mesh well, while others just don’t fit. Can you imagine putting peanut butter with macaroni and cheese? No! Because peanut butter needs jelly!

Let’s begin with acidity. High acidity in a wine complements creamy, basic dishes. It heightens the flavor of the food and washes it down beautifully. My favorite example is my whitefish Parmesan with a nice Sauvignon Blanc.

White Wines (light to full-bodied)	Foods They Love (matching body)
Riesling	Flounder
Sauvignon Blanc	Oysters
Pinot Grigio	Clams or Shrimp
Gewürztraminer	Scallops
Chardonnay	Veal or Salmon
Voigner	Roast Chicken/Sirloin Steak

There is a definite pattern that emerges with these pairs—the lighter the wine, the lighter the food. Texture plays a role as well.

And now for the reds:

Red Wines (light to full-bodied)	Foods They Love (matching body)
Burgundy/Bordeaux	Roast Chicken/Duck
Pinot Noir	Most game birds, some fish, soup/salad
Cabernet Sauvignon/Some Bordeaux	Lamb or Veal
Merlot	Lamb/Game Birds
Malbec	Lamb, Beefsteak
Heavier Bordeaux and Cabernet Sauvignon	Most Game Meats

Now, keep in mind that these are just references. For example, when we say that a Riesling goes well with flounder, we are saying that it goes well with flounder and all similar fish. The reds become a bit more general.

Disclaimer: This is just a basic entrance into the world of wine pairing. There are so many other facets that we will need to tackle later, such as ethnic foods, cheese, and dessert. But for the time being, just follow your nose! Cheers!

Homebrew Wine

Lizzy Freed  

Last year I decided to try my hand at making hard cider with my friend Colin. We purchased a small oak barrel, probably a couple of gallons at most, and went to work. The cider turned out really well, which was inspiring for first time brewers.

So, as apple season is coming to a close, I was thinking about trying again this year as a special autumn treat. But in lieu of my last article, I got to thinking: WHY haven’t I tried making wine? Why can I write an article about it, but not do it myself? There seemed to be something holding me back, like a fear of failure. But after successfully making beer and cider, I had no excuse. And so with that it was decided, and I was going to finally just do it.

Following my own advice, I decided the necessary starting point was to get some grapes. I have to be honest…I didn’t know where to go Luckily, my friend Olivia knew a spot, and we were able to fill an entire bucket. I had no idea what kind of grapes they were or how much wine they would produce, but I knew that I could probably at least, learn something from the endeavor.

We carried the grapes to the kitchen and started squishing the only way we knew how: by sticking our hands in and squishing out every last drop of juice. It was a very messy process, and by the end we were covered. I soon realized I had no idea what to do next. Yes, I have read about it, and yes, I thought I could figure it out, but the concept was easier than the action. I only had one barrel and one bucket…should I drain the juice into the barrel right now, or should I try to ferment it with the skins on? I wanted red wine, after all. So I did what anyone would do! I called my dad. Unfortunately, my dad didn’t answer the phone. I was desperate, I needed answers right away, juice was fermenting for God’s sake! What to do next? Call my dad’s friend.

Uncle Dave (not really my uncle) makes his own homebrew wine, which is notorious for having a high alcohol content. I wanted to know how he does it! He told me to keep the grapes on the skins for a few days, and then drain the juice into the barrel and start the fermentation.

I had help in this next portion, which literally cut my work in half (and of course added to the fun). Let me just say now, I feel so blessed by my awesome friends. Emma and Leah, two of my favorite people, came over to support the project. It became almost a balancing act: Leah was on trash duty, Emma on straining, and me on pouring juice into the barrel. Finally, after getting covered in grape juice, which stains, it was time to add the yeast and start the fermentation. We added about three cups of sugar (hopefully not too much) after reading our hydrometer. A hydrometer measures the specific gravity and relative density of the juice, which is just a fancy way of saying sugar level, which is just a fancy way of saying how much alcohol you’re going to get. We were at about 10% alcohol content, which is really low. This is why we added the sugar—we know how to have a good time. I finagled a used cork into something that could provide release of the gas but not let in oxygen. This is called an airlock, which is something you can buy at any local brew shop, and is essential in making alcohol. We know that as the yeast eats the sugar, it releases CO2, but that letting in oxygen would turn our product to vinegar. This airlock lets the CO2 out without letting the oxygen in.

And now, we wait. I’m not expecting anything great, but I am expecting to learn from the experience. In fact, I already have learned a great deal. I feel like I have a better idea of how the process actually works, even if it doesn’t turn out. I also have seen the interest and excitement others show in learning about a new process and their support in my interests. We had so much fun, which is a good thing to know if you are considering spending the rest of your life doing something. Hopefully it also tastes great, and I’ll have something to contribute to my grandma’s 90th birthday party.

I purchased four items, other than the barrel (all from the beer depot in Ann Arbor, MI).
- Hydrometer Sterilizing
- Sterilizing Powder (Easy Clean)
- Red Wine Yeast
- Tartaric Acid (recommended for anyone…Mild sulfite that helps the wine to maintain flavor)

As before, I was consulting the book How To Make Wine, by Sheridan Warrick

Wine Making 101

Lizzy Freed  

“The sun, with all of those planets revolving around it and dependent on it can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else in the universe to do.”
   -Galileo Galilei

Wine, like many of life’s mysteries, reaches a level of complexity deep enough to overwhelm even the greatest minds. It’s a drink and a culture in its own right, rather than merely a “good time beverage”. Once its process and multi-faceted purpose are understood, its true beauty becomes visible.

The winemaking process reflects the profundity of wine because it is so involved. There are entire books written about each individual facet of the process. This is the reason wine can get so expensive; it’s true you can get a decent bottle of wine without draining your bank account, but anyone who wants anything really special should think of it as an investment and not an expense.

The reason that wine can get so pricey is because truly exceptional bottles take time and attention, while those that are flat and replaceable do not. Though I would love to say that price doesn’t reflect quality, in many circumstances it does. It is more expensive to create a more complex product.

In order to understand the life behind a fine wine, let’s first take a look at how it’s made. This will be a very brief explanation, because as I said before, each step in the process can get complicated. However, I feel that it’s important to have a basic understanding in order to make educated assumptions about wine and to give it deserved appreciation.

The first step is to procure the grapes. Some wineries have their own established vineyards where they grow their own grapes, while others order their product from non-estate growers. The growing process is very complex, and is something that will take another column to expand upon.

Next, the rest of the supplies (yeast, crushers, presses, tanks and barrels to name a few) must be bought and prepped. This can include cleaning, sterilizing, and general organization.

The grapes then need to be pulverized, which is generally done in a crusher. Then the mash of grapes is moved to either oak or steel barrels where the fermentation process takes place.

Though most grapes will contain some natural yeast (there are even some traditional wineries that use only these), generally specific yeast strains are added to the juice to accelerate the fermentation process. This step is really where nature takes over. Because I’m a visual learner, I like to imagine the yeast eating the sugar and leaving alcohol behind. Obviously it’s a lot more complicated than this, but we’re not getting into a chemistry lesson here.

In order to make a red wine, the grape skins are left to ferment with the flesh. In whites, the juice is strained from the skins after crushing. The majority of grape varietals, including most reds, have clear juice. The red color in wine comes mainly from the skin, which contains most of a grape’s pigmentation. Generally speaking, white wines are produced from grapes that have both light skin and light juice, but it’s possible to create a white wine from a seemingly red grape, such as Pinot Noir.

After fermentation, the wine can be bottled where they age further, or moved to barrels. If you have ever seen a bottle of wine that says that it’s a “reserve,” it means that during this stage, the wine was moved into barrels, generally oak, giving the wine time to develop a more complex personality; each barrel of the same wine will taste different in the end because of its unique aging.

So the next time you’re cruising the wine aisle picking out the next nightcap, think back about the work that was expended to put that bottle on the shelf. Imagine the grapes growing, and the stress they feel during a heat wave. Think about who put the time and care into picking the grapes. Think about the precise moment the winemaker tasted his reserve and decided it was ready for bottling. Because a bottle of wine isn’t just a drink: it’s an experience.

More information available in Sheridan Warrick’s The Way to Make Wine.

My Intro to Wine Snobbery

Lizzy Freed  

“I like to think about what was going on the year the grapes were growing; how the sun was shining; if it rained. I like to think about all the people who tended and picked the grapes. And if it's an old wine, how many of them must be dead by now. I like how wine continues to evolve, like if I opened a bottle of wine today it would taste different than if I'd opened it on any other day, because a bottle of wine is actually alive. And it's constantly evolving and gaining complexity. That is, until it peaks, like your '61. And then it begins its steady, inevitable decline.”
    -Sideways

I’ve liked (no, loved) wine for as long as I can remember. Not only the allure of its subtle complexities and romanticized image, but the culture of vineyards and agriculture. Although I’m not trained as a sommelier, nor do I have any actual credentials, I have completed the most necessary step to lushism: I drink a lot of wine.

I’m lucky enough to actually remember my first experience with wine. I thank adult supervision for that, rather than my age. I was about five years old, at that tricky point for young Catholics where you’re dragged to church every Sunday. Fortunately for me, my father is a non-practicing Methodist, and would make up excuses to save me from the hour of fidgeting beside my mother. This week’s recipe: Making booze.

It’s not really as bad as it sounds, so before the image of my law-abiding father is misconstrued, let me just explain that he is a man of many trades and hobbies. So, for his next endeavor, he had a hankering to make a little home brew. My role in this was very tame, and very fun for a five-year-old tomboy. I got to step in a bucket of grapes until they were all juiced, just like they always did in the movies.

In the end, our wine turned to vinegar and was tossed in the compost, but on that fleeting Sunday morning, I glimpsed into something wonderful: the culture and beauty of wine.

This leads me to what I really hope to accomplish in this column. As any of my friends can attest to, I have a huge passion for this drink (oh, but it’s SO much more!), and love to spread its goodness. So although I might not have much of an official education on wine and can’t promise I won’t make a few mistakes, this could be a great place for us all to learn together about food and drink, and the beautiful relationship it can have with human life.

Although some may better remember their first wine hangover, we can generally all say that within the experience we either bonded with good friends or with ourselves. We can get into wine complexities later, but as an introduction, we should recognize that this drink brings us together to talk, laugh, or cry, in many cases. You don’t have to be a snob to recognize that.