Maddie LaKind
It’s official. The infamous Midwest, mid-winter funk has cast a cloud over the city of Ann Arbor. With all of this snowy rain, cold slush, and oh so much gray I think its safe to say that the charm of that long-awaited and short-lived white Christmas is officially over. Fortunately, in the midst of such a miserable weather rut, there are sprinklings of new local restaurants that are adding a needed pop of sunshine to our dreary city climate.
The one place recently hovering on my foodie radar is Isalita, the follow up restaurant from the managers of the still ever-popular Mani Osteria. Situated right next door to its Italian counterpart, Isalita approaches food in a similar light to Mani but instead of Italian, shifts its focus to Mexican—a cuisine that has maintained marginal representation in Ann Arbor for years (I’m sorry, but Tios and Chipotle just don’t cut it for me). Focusing on small, but intensely flavorful plates for sharing, Isalita tackles the classics like nachos, tacos, and fried plantains, emphasizing excellent quality and flavor.
After having paid three visits to this charming establishment since my return from winter break, I am a newly converted fan. While I will admit that a number of their items could use improvement—bland tortilla soup, overly smooth/untextured guacamole, and one-noted tacos—the spicy tuna ceviche is a dish I haven’t been able to shake from my mind.
Composed of small pieces of raw fish marinated in citrus juice and other accompaniments, ceviche has garnered a reputation as one of the best ways to enjoy seafood in its absolute purest form. Given the love/hate status so commonly linked to raw fish, I know this dish will not appeal to all. However, for all you adamant anti-raw eaters out there, just listen.
Starting with a simple base of uber-fresh, diced briny tuna, the chef crafts this dish like a fine painting, adding layers upon layers of flavor until exceptionally balanced and complex. Chopped green mangos give the dish a tart, sweet flavor. Toasted coconut adds warmth and nuttiness. Pickled onions add a vinegary, acidic bite. Serrano chile adds heat and crunch. And finally, lime juice serves as the binder of the whole dish, adding that unparalleled tang and brightness of citrus.
On par with the tropical flavor profile is the symphony of textures on this plate. Starting on the fish front, the raw tuna steak is just unctuous enough, maintaining a nice firmness while still indulgently fatty. Tacking on the softness of the mango and pickled onion and the crunch of raw chile and toasted coconut, you couldn’t ask for a better mother load combination.
So if this so-called “winter” weather is leading you to the dark side, treat yourself to a night out and give Isalita a visit. Whether it’s the ceviche or any of their other notable dinner offerings/cocktails, you’ll instantly feel transported from this snowy, rainy hell and straight to a far away place filled with sunshine, palm trees, tequila, tortilla chips, warmth, and sun!
Isalita 341A E. Liberty St. Ann Arbor, MI 48104
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