Not Your Average Pudding Cup

Maddie LaKind  

There is something innately special about Zingerman’s Roadhouse. I can’t quite put my finger on it. Maybe it’s the bright hues of orange and yellow dominating the three-room, sprawling restaurant; or the captivating posters giving detailed background stories of local farmers and purveyors of the restaurant; or the cases upon cases of salt and pepper shakers; or the ever-so-kind staff that always makes you feel like their only customer. It’s hard to say, but all I know is that this place holds a unique, z-shaped spot in my heart.

Specializing in classic all-American eats with a heavy focus on quality, chef Alex Young has created an empire of meaty, cheesy, veggie, sweet, and indulgent goodness that both Ann Arborites and out-of-towners can’t seem to get enough of—hence the 1-2 hour waits on the weekends. While I have had epic eating experiences with such specialties as the dangerously gooey Mac-N-Cheese, smoky slab of ribs, platters of oysters, mussels, and grilled fish, and heaping baskets of thick-cut sweet potato fries, the butterscotch pudding is the one dish that has stuck with me ever since my first spoonful.

This pudding has been a staple of the Roadhouse menu for quite some time, but a recent recipe revamp by Chef Sarah Mays has elevated it from just your average bowl of pudding to a heavenly confectionary creation. I guess you could say she has a sixth pudding sense of sorts, knowing the exact proportion of ingredients and the proper whisking techniques necessary to achieve the ideal pudding consistency and classical sweet flavor. Despite standing in the presence of monstrous and intriguing post-dinner options like the donut sundae or Mississippi mud pie, the butterscotch pudding may come off as a modest contender at best. Take my advice though on this one and absolutely do not—I repeat do not—knock it before you try it!

Although I have experienced a long string of childhood pudding consumption vis-à-vis classic Jell-O Pudding cups, this dessert had never possessed much of a presence on my foodie radar. I guess that’s just because I hadn’t experienced pudding done right, or rather, pudding made the old-fashioned way with just a few star elements. Mays combines lots of butter, thick, local heavy cream, and Muscovado sugar—a course, molasses-y brown sugar—and works her dessert magic until it reaches that “just right” middle ground between not-to-thick and not-to-thin. The real hallmark of the dish, in my opinion, comes from a pinch of fleur de sel, a flaky, slightly saltier French version of American table salt, right on top of the finished pudding.

Modestly presented in a small cylindrical glass not much larger than a standard shot, this beauty of a pudding has nearly every sensual element working in its favor. A deep chestnut color and light sheen. A flawless, velvety texture. A toasty, caramel scent. And, an absolutely addicting sweet-salty flavor. The light sprinkling of fleur de sel, which may seem out of place in such a sugary dish, actually helps balance out the intensity of the butterscotch, while also adding a crunchy contrast to the silky pudding. The combination is nothing short of pure pudding bliss.

There is one important thing to note about this item: its presence on the dessert menu fluctuates week by week. This means taking a chance and relying on a bit of fate and pure hope. I urge you not to become distraught if you happen to see it left off of the menu; simply view it as an excellent excuse to come back again. Either way, the Roadhouse is nothing short of an experience to remember and will you leave you filled with that warm, fuzzy feeling of spending time with family and friends and savoring some damn good, down-home American comfort food.

Zingerman’s Roadhouse 2501 Jackson Avenue Ann Arbor, MI 48103

It’s Not Just Red or White: Cabernet Sauvignon

Lizzy Freed  

Some grapes are finicky, only growing in select locations and needing just the right circumstances to produce high-quality wine. Then some others, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, are what I like to call troopers.

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most well known grape varietals on Earth, and with good reason. It is produced in very diverse climates, from the frigid north of Michigan to the warmer soils of northern Argentina. It has even been successfully grown in the Gobi Desert in China (though the real thanks should be paid to their irrigation system, which is a topic for another day).

In 1997, UC Davis researchers found that Cabernet Sauvignon is a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc; it’s a blend that can be dated back to the 1600’s. Originally form the Medoc region of Bordeaux, the tricky little grape has now found its way into nearly every wine region of the world.

It began to gain international popularity in the 1900’s, moving from France and Spain to South America and then the United States. Now it is arguably the most-cultivated wine grape in the world, though some say Merlot has it beat while others vote Grenache.

In any case, there is a lot of it. This probably comes from its popularity rather than its resilience, because although it seems to be the easiest grape to grow, it is actually a bit temperamental. I call it a trooper because it can grow in a number of places… it just doesn’t necessarily like to. Cabernet Sauvignon needs a lot of sunlight to fully mature, which means that it needs a longer growing season than some places can offer. The cost that goes into producing the grape shows in their cost as well—a good Cab is not cheap.

Nowadays, people are saying that Cabernet Sauvignon is old school and not as trendy as a hot new Argentine Malbec, but no matter what anyone says, it’s still my favorite. It’s one of the most complex wines you can drink (which may factor into the fact it’s so expensive to produce…), and is, in my opinion, timeless. It just feels classic—like dad’s old Cadillac. When I think wine, I think Cabernet.

It’s high in tannins, which as we know are not a taste, but a sensation in the mouth. There’s generally a lot of fruit flavor, especially in California Cabs, and earthy or tobacco tones. A nice bottle can age for a pretty long time, as the tannins can mellow into a more complex and rounded flavor, given the opportunity.

Generally speaking, Cabernet Sauvignon goes well with peppery red meat and fatty dishes that can stand up to the flavor. Herbed lamb chops or a moderate cheese would be tantalizing, or a big juicy hamburger with fried mushrooms. Whatever you do, just don’t try it with chocolate—the mellow flavor will get lost in the tannins.

Because of its complex deep flavors, I find Cabernet Sauvignon to be a treat that can be just as enjoyable sans food. So grab a bottle and a couple of friends if you want, and enjoy this “no longer trendy” drink—it’s a classic, so that could be hipster given the right circumstances.

Cheers!

Guide to Cabernet Sauvignon Red Wine
New Bordeaux

New Coffeeshop on the Block

Maddie LaKind  

I have a problem. It’s something I’ve dealt with for a long time. It’s something that has cost me a lot of money. And its something I couldn’t live without. Yes folks, I am a coffee shop junkie.

This addiction may seem odd to those who know me, given my pretty minimal daily coffee consumption, but there is something about these spots I can’t quite put my finger on. Maybe it’s the always diverse mix of people (locals/students/hipsters), or the consistently great music playlists showing off artists as far ranging as Animal Collective to Tracy Chapman, or the distinct sound of milk being steamed and espresso being pulled. Whatever this it factor actually is, I’m hooked and keep on frequenting these places—to the detriment of my wallet— week in and week out.

While I am completely satisfied with my usual string of Ann Arbor spots—Comet, Lab, and Zingerman’s—its always a momentous occasion when a new coffee shop comes on the scene, especially if they possess the criterion trifecta for coffeeshop excellence: stellar coffee, food, and ambience.

My most recent discovery, The Songbird Café on Plymouth Road, passed this test with flying colors. Despite only being open for eight months, Songbird has garnered a strong fan following, adding a much-needed splash of authenticity and quality to the land of chains and strip malls that is North Campus. The enormous layout of the place itself is enough to draw you in, with rows upon rows of tables, lots of natural light, and power strips under each table—a crucial element for any student in need of a productive study space.

Fortunately, this place is more than a pretty face, with superb food and drink to boot covering breakfast, lunch, and needed morning/afternoon caffeine fixes. My visit fell around lunchtime, which meant only one thing: sandwich and soup combos. Given that I’ve never really seen this concept executed well anywhere but Panera (which I have since moved on from given an inordinate number of visits freshman year), you can imagine my excitement at the prospect. After a consultation from Emma, my bestie and foodie partner in crime, we settled on our duos: half turkey sandwich and cup of butternut squash soup for me and truffled egg salad sandwich and chicken tortilla soup for Em.

Upon my first bites of sandwich and spoonfuls of soup, I knew this place was more than your run of the mill coffee joint. The butternut squash soup was just hot enough, super silky, and slightly sweet from a hint of nutmeg. Complimented with my turkey sandwich with pistachio crusted goat cheese, fig jam, and apple slices, it felt like Thanksgiving on a plate in all its savory, comforting, and delicious glory.

While Emma’s tortilla soup ached for salt, the truffled egg salad sandwich revived the plate and showed how fantastic something as mundane as egg salad can taste. Super chunky with just enough mayo to coat, this salad gets a light drizzle of truffle oil for depth of flavor and chopped celery for crunch before getting piled between two slices of crusty bread: balanced, creamy, and rich yet oh so light.

More than impressed by our lunchtime selections, we decided to further indulge ourselves (as Emma and I tend to do when eating out) with coffee and dessert. Intrigued by the name, we chose the nutella latte as our beverage, which, despite not tasting much of nutella, held a more-than-pleasant, deep chocolaty flavor. Accompanied by a sea salt chocolate chip cookie, microwaved for extra chocolaty gooeyness (great idea, Emma), we were officially in lunchtime heaven, lounging around and chatting for nearly two hours.

And that’s all I really need in a day. A nice place to sit, take a load off, grab a cup of coffee, eat some good food, and enjoy the company of friends. Songbird offers all of these things in a fresh and comforting way that will leave you actually wanting to make the trip to pseudo-North Campus time and time again.

The Songbird Café 2707 Plymouth Rd, Ann Arbor, MI 48105

Dom's Donuts

Maddie LaKind  

“Citgo, how may I help you?” the phone attendant asked on the other line. My heart sank. “Wait…this isn’t Krispy Kreme?”

How could it be? Was the Internet lying? No Krispy Kremes in Ypsilanti?

This was how it all began—my week of donut-dom. I don’t know exactly what cosmic force or foodie god brought these fried gems back into my life after nearly a year without, but for some reason, I had donuts on the brain. Desperately craving a classic, Krispy Kreme original glazed variety, I tirelessly scoured the Internet in search of a drive-thru or gas station that would carry these little pillows of donut heaven. To my shock and excitement, such a place existed a mere 10 minutes away in Ypsilanti. My life was made, and I was prepared to drop everything and make the trip.

Given the meager amount of Krispy Kreme drive-thrus still in existence, I called ahead just to make sure the place was actually functional. To my overwhelming disappointment, the Internet led me way way awry to, of all places, a Citgo gas station; #fail.

While initially disappointed, I saw this moment as a sign that my Krispy Kreme journey was not meant to be, and that maybe there was an even better donut out there waiting to be discovered. Tapping into my locavore mentality, I set out to leave the conventional, every day Krispy Kreme behind and seek out a real deal, Michigan donut dive.

With this goal in mind, I consulted my go-to string of online food/travel guides—Yelp, Trip Advisor, and Urbanspoon—to help me track down a spot. Following a lengthy investigation, I finally stumbled upon something promising: Dom Bakeries, a 24-hr drive-thru donut shop/bakery in Ypsilanti.

My adventure to Dom’s began on an early Friday morning last week with a quick drive east on Washtenaw and two very hungry, foodie friends in tow. Upon arrival, we knew that this place would be the real deal. The shop looks as if it has remained nearly the same since its opening, with an overwhelmingly beige, 70’s style interior, dotted with a few tables, a couple of drink coolers, and case upon case of baked treats. Now, unlike the current gourmet donut shops sprouting up around the country, Dom’s remains true to its roots: no frills, no pretension, no fancy ingredients or techniques, just awesome donuts that will take you straight back to childhood.

After a thorough perusal of Dom’s selection, we settled on an apple fritter and custard filled long john to share. Armed with steaming cups of coffee, we wasted no time and laid all of the donuts out before us and began picking away.

My first instinct drew me to the apple fritter (per the recommendation of most online reviews), which, if you’ve never seen or had one, translates to a heaping messy mound of fried dough, studded with tiny bits of stewed apples and ribbons of cinnamon, all coated in a light layer of sugar glaze. While fritters aren’t normally my go to donut pick, this one changed my perspective. Dense yet light, sweet but not too sweet, and slightly fruity, warm from the apples and cinnamon—this donut is a simple delight in its purest form.

Although the fritter definitely impressed, the real star of breakfast went to the custard long john—an ethereally fluffy donut filled with velvety, not-too-sweet custard, and topped with a layer of milk chocolate. As more of a light donut kind of girl (in the age-old light vs. cake donut debate), this one hit the spot, filling that classic donut flavor profile without weighing me down.

Given our ferocious appetites, we plowed through our selection in less than fifteen minutes and headed back to Ann Arbor full, caffeinated, and sugar buzzed—the best way to start a weekend.

Now I know that most people have no desire to make a drive all the way out to Ypsilanti just for a donut. However, after confirmation from both of my friends and our very satisfied stomachs, we all agreed these ones were definitely worth a trip. If not for the donuts themselves, Dom’s will provide you an old school charm, vast selection, and crazy cheap prices—24 hrs a day to boot!

Dom Bakeries 1305 Washtenaw Ave Ypsilanti, MI 48197

It's Not Just Red or White: Malbec

Lizzy Freed  

After exploring Carménère, it’s only fitting that we look at its biggest South American competitor: Malbec.

Now it isn’t that these two wines are competitive. Rather, it’s the countries. Chile and Argentina are home to some of the best wines in the world, and they both know it. However, there is no denying that the Argentines really have mastered their Malbec.

Although I am focusing on the South American version of this varietal, a brief history will show that its roots go much deeper than just Mendoza.

A French agronomist named Miguel Pouget brought cuttings of this hearty grape to Argentina in 1868, as the local population was trying to better their wine production. The grape flourished—the altitude helped to fully develop the somewhat picky grape without over-ripening or rotting. It also added complexity at different elevations, which produced different flavors that could then be blended to produce unique, but still 100%, Malbec varietals (Hello, Mendoza!).

Malbec was originally used to blend with other varietals in the Bordeaux region of France, and infrequently left to its own accords. The blight of phylloxera certainly didn’t help its popularity, and few vineyards attempted to revamp their product in France. To make matters even worse, there was a horrible frost in 1956 that really halted its production. Growers then decided to switch to safer varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. It is still produced in its raw, unblended form in Cahors, a town in Southwestern France, and many other wineries use it for blends.

So let’s talk more about these flavors. The drinking is where it really gets fun (unless of course you’re learning the history while sipping!). Malbec is usually described as having dark berry flavors, such as blackberries and currants. It has some spice as well: cinnamon, nutmeg, or black pepper. You can find some—in fact, you should seek some—that are a little earthier, with flavors like wet sand or dirt. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it.

It’s a great wine to sip on solo, but arguably better paired with grilled or spicy food, especially meats. The deep flavor and crisp acidity are nicely contrasted with a charcoal taste you’ll get with grilled pork. It’s also good with pasta dishes; I recommend trying a spicy tomato sauce with tortellini, as I like the strong wine to have a strong dish to stand up to. If you’re a cheese lover, Malbec washes down a hard manchego really well.

As far as prices go, Malbec is generally quite reasonable. It’s still growing in popularity, and thus isn’t as overpriced as some of the veteran varietals. As for recommendations, I would try anything from Argentina. If it’s from Mendoza, you shouldn’t be disappointed. I’ve been able to find some cheap, and quite tasty, Malbec at the local grocer. One I would buy again is the Cupcake brand: They do a wonderful job, and distribute all over the U.S.

If you are interested in finding it at a local retailer, take a look at their website.

Some of my white-wine-loving friends swear that they will only drink reds if it’s a Malbec. So, if you generally aren’t a red wine drinker, I say you take your palate by the reins and introduce it to something new.

Historical information:
Argentinian Malbec Wine: A Guide to the Grape's History and Unique Style
Malbec Wine Grapes' Flavor Character History

Cheese for Breakfast

Caitlin Miller  

Below are the first thoughts that run through my head each morning:

1. What a nice sleep…
2. How can I incorporate some cheese into this day, STAT

Which brings us to: breakfast cheese. Gross, you say? Nothing could be farther from the truth! Cheese is an important part of breakfast dishes around the world, a tradition that is tragically lacking in America. I admit, the thought of digging into a hefty cheese mountain first thing in the AM is not a pleasant prospect, even for me. But while all cheeses are equal, some breakfast cheeses are more equal than others – and the right cheese choice before noon will do wonders for the mind, body, and soul.

Like exercise, eating cheese gives you endorphins, and endorphins make you happy. So why start your day off at a five or six when it could be rocking at a ten? Infusing just a little cheese into your breakfast routine will do this for you. This is not hyperbole; it is fact. Think about the high you get when you eat some mozzarella for dinner, or grilled cheese or pizza for lunch – only masochists feel compelled to deprive themselves of the same rush before noon. Look, your body doesn’t understand the silly taboos associated with eating cheese in the morning. It’s just a piece of hardware wired to understand pleasure and deprivation. And when you deprive your body of cheese because “it’s just not something we usually eat in the morning,” your body won’t be vibrating at as high of a frequency for the rest of the day.

Need more reasons why you should wake up tomorrow morning jazzed about eating some cheese? College is all about working hard and staying humble. Cheese is a perfect way to start your day because it is the very embodiment of humility: it could headline a Broadway play, but instead chooses to work hard on the sidelines, popping in here and there to accent dishes as needed. To paraphrase a quote by Saint Augustine: “You plan a tower that will pierce the clouds? Lay first the foundation of humility [by eating cheese for breakfast].” By the transitive property of “you are what you eat,” consuming cheese at breakfast gives us the perfect opportunity to meditate on those qualities we too hope to exercise throughout the day.

As I mentioned earlier, an issue that does sometimes arise with breakfast cheese is the question of density. The answer is simple: keep it light. And I’m not talking about cream cheese, which is listed in the dictionary as a synonym of ‘meh,’ which is a synonym of boring. Cheese is the food of the people, but it is all about indulging the whimsy and classiness in all of us: so none of this déclassé, middlebrow bullshit – let’s get creative. Over break I had a delicious goat cheese and spinach omelet. Goat cheese, the cheese equivalent of a cumulous cloud, delivers a lot of flavor and is a great way to subtly pack the cheese into an early morning meal. Another great option is Brie – slice some Brie finely and eat with a chopped apple or pear, and take your tastebuds on a one-way trip to Flavortown. Or, if you’re feeling especially frisky, a fresh ricotta cheese with honey is light, inhumanly delicious, and, most importantly, filling enough to get you to lunch with a smile on your face.

In short, there are two types of people in the world: those that enjoy cheese with breakfast, and fascists. Just kidding! But in all seriousness, if you find yourself in that first category, you’re doing it right; and if not, it’s never too late to learn!

Extreme Makeover: Spicy Tuna Edition

Maddie LaKind  

It’s official. The infamous Midwest, mid-winter funk has cast a cloud over the city of Ann Arbor. With all of this snowy rain, cold slush, and oh so much gray I think its safe to say that the charm of that long-awaited and short-lived white Christmas is officially over. Fortunately, in the midst of such a miserable weather rut, there are sprinklings of new local restaurants that are adding a needed pop of sunshine to our dreary city climate.

The one place recently hovering on my foodie radar is Isalita, the follow up restaurant from the managers of the still ever-popular Mani Osteria. Situated right next door to its Italian counterpart, Isalita approaches food in a similar light to Mani but instead of Italian, shifts its focus to Mexican—a cuisine that has maintained marginal representation in Ann Arbor for years (I’m sorry, but Tios and Chipotle just don’t cut it for me). Focusing on small, but intensely flavorful plates for sharing, Isalita tackles the classics like nachos, tacos, and fried plantains, emphasizing excellent quality and flavor.

After having paid three visits to this charming establishment since my return from winter break, I am a newly converted fan. While I will admit that a number of their items could use improvement—bland tortilla soup, overly smooth/untextured guacamole, and one-noted tacos—the spicy tuna ceviche is a dish I haven’t been able to shake from my mind.

Composed of small pieces of raw fish marinated in citrus juice and other accompaniments, ceviche has garnered a reputation as one of the best ways to enjoy seafood in its absolute purest form. Given the love/hate status so commonly linked to raw fish, I know this dish will not appeal to all. However, for all you adamant anti-raw eaters out there, just listen.

Starting with a simple base of uber-fresh, diced briny tuna, the chef crafts this dish like a fine painting, adding layers upon layers of flavor until exceptionally balanced and complex. Chopped green mangos give the dish a tart, sweet flavor. Toasted coconut adds warmth and nuttiness. Pickled onions add a vinegary, acidic bite. Serrano chile adds heat and crunch. And finally, lime juice serves as the binder of the whole dish, adding that unparalleled tang and brightness of citrus.

On par with the tropical flavor profile is the symphony of textures on this plate. Starting on the fish front, the raw tuna steak is just unctuous enough, maintaining a nice firmness while still indulgently fatty. Tacking on the softness of the mango and pickled onion and the crunch of raw chile and toasted coconut, you couldn’t ask for a better mother load combination.

So if this so-called “winter” weather is leading you to the dark side, treat yourself to a night out and give Isalita a visit. Whether it’s the ceviche or any of their other notable dinner offerings/cocktails, you’ll instantly feel transported from this snowy, rainy hell and straight to a far away place filled with sunshine, palm trees, tequila, tortilla chips, warmth, and sun!

Isalita 341A E. Liberty St. Ann Arbor, MI 48104