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Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Not Your Average Pudding Cup

Maddie LaKind  

There is something innately special about Zingerman’s Roadhouse. I can’t quite put my finger on it. Maybe it’s the bright hues of orange and yellow dominating the three-room, sprawling restaurant; or the captivating posters giving detailed background stories of local farmers and purveyors of the restaurant; or the cases upon cases of salt and pepper shakers; or the ever-so-kind staff that always makes you feel like their only customer. It’s hard to say, but all I know is that this place holds a unique, z-shaped spot in my heart.

Specializing in classic all-American eats with a heavy focus on quality, chef Alex Young has created an empire of meaty, cheesy, veggie, sweet, and indulgent goodness that both Ann Arborites and out-of-towners can’t seem to get enough of—hence the 1-2 hour waits on the weekends. While I have had epic eating experiences with such specialties as the dangerously gooey Mac-N-Cheese, smoky slab of ribs, platters of oysters, mussels, and grilled fish, and heaping baskets of thick-cut sweet potato fries, the butterscotch pudding is the one dish that has stuck with me ever since my first spoonful.

This pudding has been a staple of the Roadhouse menu for quite some time, but a recent recipe revamp by Chef Sarah Mays has elevated it from just your average bowl of pudding to a heavenly confectionary creation. I guess you could say she has a sixth pudding sense of sorts, knowing the exact proportion of ingredients and the proper whisking techniques necessary to achieve the ideal pudding consistency and classical sweet flavor. Despite standing in the presence of monstrous and intriguing post-dinner options like the donut sundae or Mississippi mud pie, the butterscotch pudding may come off as a modest contender at best. Take my advice though on this one and absolutely do not—I repeat do not—knock it before you try it!

Although I have experienced a long string of childhood pudding consumption vis-à-vis classic Jell-O Pudding cups, this dessert had never possessed much of a presence on my foodie radar. I guess that’s just because I hadn’t experienced pudding done right, or rather, pudding made the old-fashioned way with just a few star elements. Mays combines lots of butter, thick, local heavy cream, and Muscovado sugar—a course, molasses-y brown sugar—and works her dessert magic until it reaches that “just right” middle ground between not-to-thick and not-to-thin. The real hallmark of the dish, in my opinion, comes from a pinch of fleur de sel, a flaky, slightly saltier French version of American table salt, right on top of the finished pudding.

Modestly presented in a small cylindrical glass not much larger than a standard shot, this beauty of a pudding has nearly every sensual element working in its favor. A deep chestnut color and light sheen. A flawless, velvety texture. A toasty, caramel scent. And, an absolutely addicting sweet-salty flavor. The light sprinkling of fleur de sel, which may seem out of place in such a sugary dish, actually helps balance out the intensity of the butterscotch, while also adding a crunchy contrast to the silky pudding. The combination is nothing short of pure pudding bliss.

There is one important thing to note about this item: its presence on the dessert menu fluctuates week by week. This means taking a chance and relying on a bit of fate and pure hope. I urge you not to become distraught if you happen to see it left off of the menu; simply view it as an excellent excuse to come back again. Either way, the Roadhouse is nothing short of an experience to remember and will you leave you filled with that warm, fuzzy feeling of spending time with family and friends and savoring some damn good, down-home American comfort food.

Zingerman’s Roadhouse 2501 Jackson Avenue Ann Arbor, MI 48103

Friday, March 22, 2013

It’s Not Just Red or White: Cabernet Sauvignon

Lizzy Freed  

Some grapes are finicky, only growing in select locations and needing just the right circumstances to produce high-quality wine. Then some others, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, are what I like to call troopers.

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most well known grape varietals on Earth, and with good reason. It is produced in very diverse climates, from the frigid north of Michigan to the warmer soils of northern Argentina. It has even been successfully grown in the Gobi Desert in China (though the real thanks should be paid to their irrigation system, which is a topic for another day).

In 1997, UC Davis researchers found that Cabernet Sauvignon is a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc; it’s a blend that can be dated back to the 1600’s. Originally form the Medoc region of Bordeaux, the tricky little grape has now found its way into nearly every wine region of the world.

It began to gain international popularity in the 1900’s, moving from France and Spain to South America and then the United States. Now it is arguably the most-cultivated wine grape in the world, though some say Merlot has it beat while others vote Grenache.

In any case, there is a lot of it. This probably comes from its popularity rather than its resilience, because although it seems to be the easiest grape to grow, it is actually a bit temperamental. I call it a trooper because it can grow in a number of places… it just doesn’t necessarily like to. Cabernet Sauvignon needs a lot of sunlight to fully mature, which means that it needs a longer growing season than some places can offer. The cost that goes into producing the grape shows in their cost as well—a good Cab is not cheap.

Nowadays, people are saying that Cabernet Sauvignon is old school and not as trendy as a hot new Argentine Malbec, but no matter what anyone says, it’s still my favorite. It’s one of the most complex wines you can drink (which may factor into the fact it’s so expensive to produce…), and is, in my opinion, timeless. It just feels classic—like dad’s old Cadillac. When I think wine, I think Cabernet.

It’s high in tannins, which as we know are not a taste, but a sensation in the mouth. There’s generally a lot of fruit flavor, especially in California Cabs, and earthy or tobacco tones. A nice bottle can age for a pretty long time, as the tannins can mellow into a more complex and rounded flavor, given the opportunity.

Generally speaking, Cabernet Sauvignon goes well with peppery red meat and fatty dishes that can stand up to the flavor. Herbed lamb chops or a moderate cheese would be tantalizing, or a big juicy hamburger with fried mushrooms. Whatever you do, just don’t try it with chocolate—the mellow flavor will get lost in the tannins.

Because of its complex deep flavors, I find Cabernet Sauvignon to be a treat that can be just as enjoyable sans food. So grab a bottle and a couple of friends if you want, and enjoy this “no longer trendy” drink—it’s a classic, so that could be hipster given the right circumstances.

Cheers!

Guide to Cabernet Sauvignon Red Wine
New Bordeaux

Thursday, March 14, 2013

New Coffeeshop on the Block

Maddie LaKind  

I have a problem. It’s something I’ve dealt with for a long time. It’s something that has cost me a lot of money. And its something I couldn’t live without. Yes folks, I am a coffee shop junkie.

This addiction may seem odd to those who know me, given my pretty minimal daily coffee consumption, but there is something about these spots I can’t quite put my finger on. Maybe it’s the always diverse mix of people (locals/students/hipsters), or the consistently great music playlists showing off artists as far ranging as Animal Collective to Tracy Chapman, or the distinct sound of milk being steamed and espresso being pulled. Whatever this it factor actually is, I’m hooked and keep on frequenting these places—to the detriment of my wallet— week in and week out.

While I am completely satisfied with my usual string of Ann Arbor spots—Comet, Lab, and Zingerman’s—its always a momentous occasion when a new coffee shop comes on the scene, especially if they possess the criterion trifecta for coffeeshop excellence: stellar coffee, food, and ambience.

My most recent discovery, The Songbird Café on Plymouth Road, passed this test with flying colors. Despite only being open for eight months, Songbird has garnered a strong fan following, adding a much-needed splash of authenticity and quality to the land of chains and strip malls that is North Campus. The enormous layout of the place itself is enough to draw you in, with rows upon rows of tables, lots of natural light, and power strips under each table—a crucial element for any student in need of a productive study space.

Fortunately, this place is more than a pretty face, with superb food and drink to boot covering breakfast, lunch, and needed morning/afternoon caffeine fixes. My visit fell around lunchtime, which meant only one thing: sandwich and soup combos. Given that I’ve never really seen this concept executed well anywhere but Panera (which I have since moved on from given an inordinate number of visits freshman year), you can imagine my excitement at the prospect. After a consultation from Emma, my bestie and foodie partner in crime, we settled on our duos: half turkey sandwich and cup of butternut squash soup for me and truffled egg salad sandwich and chicken tortilla soup for Em.

Upon my first bites of sandwich and spoonfuls of soup, I knew this place was more than your run of the mill coffee joint. The butternut squash soup was just hot enough, super silky, and slightly sweet from a hint of nutmeg. Complimented with my turkey sandwich with pistachio crusted goat cheese, fig jam, and apple slices, it felt like Thanksgiving on a plate in all its savory, comforting, and delicious glory.

While Emma’s tortilla soup ached for salt, the truffled egg salad sandwich revived the plate and showed how fantastic something as mundane as egg salad can taste. Super chunky with just enough mayo to coat, this salad gets a light drizzle of truffle oil for depth of flavor and chopped celery for crunch before getting piled between two slices of crusty bread: balanced, creamy, and rich yet oh so light.

More than impressed by our lunchtime selections, we decided to further indulge ourselves (as Emma and I tend to do when eating out) with coffee and dessert. Intrigued by the name, we chose the nutella latte as our beverage, which, despite not tasting much of nutella, held a more-than-pleasant, deep chocolaty flavor. Accompanied by a sea salt chocolate chip cookie, microwaved for extra chocolaty gooeyness (great idea, Emma), we were officially in lunchtime heaven, lounging around and chatting for nearly two hours.

And that’s all I really need in a day. A nice place to sit, take a load off, grab a cup of coffee, eat some good food, and enjoy the company of friends. Songbird offers all of these things in a fresh and comforting way that will leave you actually wanting to make the trip to pseudo-North Campus time and time again.

The Songbird Café 2707 Plymouth Rd, Ann Arbor, MI 48105