Dom's Donuts

Maddie LaKind  

“Citgo, how may I help you?” the phone attendant asked on the other line. My heart sank. “Wait…this isn’t Krispy Kreme?”

How could it be? Was the Internet lying? No Krispy Kremes in Ypsilanti?

This was how it all began—my week of donut-dom. I don’t know exactly what cosmic force or foodie god brought these fried gems back into my life after nearly a year without, but for some reason, I had donuts on the brain. Desperately craving a classic, Krispy Kreme original glazed variety, I tirelessly scoured the Internet in search of a drive-thru or gas station that would carry these little pillows of donut heaven. To my shock and excitement, such a place existed a mere 10 minutes away in Ypsilanti. My life was made, and I was prepared to drop everything and make the trip.

Given the meager amount of Krispy Kreme drive-thrus still in existence, I called ahead just to make sure the place was actually functional. To my overwhelming disappointment, the Internet led me way way awry to, of all places, a Citgo gas station; #fail.

While initially disappointed, I saw this moment as a sign that my Krispy Kreme journey was not meant to be, and that maybe there was an even better donut out there waiting to be discovered. Tapping into my locavore mentality, I set out to leave the conventional, every day Krispy Kreme behind and seek out a real deal, Michigan donut dive.

With this goal in mind, I consulted my go-to string of online food/travel guides—Yelp, Trip Advisor, and Urbanspoon—to help me track down a spot. Following a lengthy investigation, I finally stumbled upon something promising: Dom Bakeries, a 24-hr drive-thru donut shop/bakery in Ypsilanti.

My adventure to Dom’s began on an early Friday morning last week with a quick drive east on Washtenaw and two very hungry, foodie friends in tow. Upon arrival, we knew that this place would be the real deal. The shop looks as if it has remained nearly the same since its opening, with an overwhelmingly beige, 70’s style interior, dotted with a few tables, a couple of drink coolers, and case upon case of baked treats. Now, unlike the current gourmet donut shops sprouting up around the country, Dom’s remains true to its roots: no frills, no pretension, no fancy ingredients or techniques, just awesome donuts that will take you straight back to childhood.

After a thorough perusal of Dom’s selection, we settled on an apple fritter and custard filled long john to share. Armed with steaming cups of coffee, we wasted no time and laid all of the donuts out before us and began picking away.

My first instinct drew me to the apple fritter (per the recommendation of most online reviews), which, if you’ve never seen or had one, translates to a heaping messy mound of fried dough, studded with tiny bits of stewed apples and ribbons of cinnamon, all coated in a light layer of sugar glaze. While fritters aren’t normally my go to donut pick, this one changed my perspective. Dense yet light, sweet but not too sweet, and slightly fruity, warm from the apples and cinnamon—this donut is a simple delight in its purest form.

Although the fritter definitely impressed, the real star of breakfast went to the custard long john—an ethereally fluffy donut filled with velvety, not-too-sweet custard, and topped with a layer of milk chocolate. As more of a light donut kind of girl (in the age-old light vs. cake donut debate), this one hit the spot, filling that classic donut flavor profile without weighing me down.

Given our ferocious appetites, we plowed through our selection in less than fifteen minutes and headed back to Ann Arbor full, caffeinated, and sugar buzzed—the best way to start a weekend.

Now I know that most people have no desire to make a drive all the way out to Ypsilanti just for a donut. However, after confirmation from both of my friends and our very satisfied stomachs, we all agreed these ones were definitely worth a trip. If not for the donuts themselves, Dom’s will provide you an old school charm, vast selection, and crazy cheap prices—24 hrs a day to boot!

Dom Bakeries 1305 Washtenaw Ave Ypsilanti, MI 48197

It's Not Just Red or White: Malbec

Lizzy Freed  

After exploring Carménère, it’s only fitting that we look at its biggest South American competitor: Malbec.

Now it isn’t that these two wines are competitive. Rather, it’s the countries. Chile and Argentina are home to some of the best wines in the world, and they both know it. However, there is no denying that the Argentines really have mastered their Malbec.

Although I am focusing on the South American version of this varietal, a brief history will show that its roots go much deeper than just Mendoza.

A French agronomist named Miguel Pouget brought cuttings of this hearty grape to Argentina in 1868, as the local population was trying to better their wine production. The grape flourished—the altitude helped to fully develop the somewhat picky grape without over-ripening or rotting. It also added complexity at different elevations, which produced different flavors that could then be blended to produce unique, but still 100%, Malbec varietals (Hello, Mendoza!).

Malbec was originally used to blend with other varietals in the Bordeaux region of France, and infrequently left to its own accords. The blight of phylloxera certainly didn’t help its popularity, and few vineyards attempted to revamp their product in France. To make matters even worse, there was a horrible frost in 1956 that really halted its production. Growers then decided to switch to safer varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. It is still produced in its raw, unblended form in Cahors, a town in Southwestern France, and many other wineries use it for blends.

So let’s talk more about these flavors. The drinking is where it really gets fun (unless of course you’re learning the history while sipping!). Malbec is usually described as having dark berry flavors, such as blackberries and currants. It has some spice as well: cinnamon, nutmeg, or black pepper. You can find some—in fact, you should seek some—that are a little earthier, with flavors like wet sand or dirt. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it.

It’s a great wine to sip on solo, but arguably better paired with grilled or spicy food, especially meats. The deep flavor and crisp acidity are nicely contrasted with a charcoal taste you’ll get with grilled pork. It’s also good with pasta dishes; I recommend trying a spicy tomato sauce with tortellini, as I like the strong wine to have a strong dish to stand up to. If you’re a cheese lover, Malbec washes down a hard manchego really well.

As far as prices go, Malbec is generally quite reasonable. It’s still growing in popularity, and thus isn’t as overpriced as some of the veteran varietals. As for recommendations, I would try anything from Argentina. If it’s from Mendoza, you shouldn’t be disappointed. I’ve been able to find some cheap, and quite tasty, Malbec at the local grocer. One I would buy again is the Cupcake brand: They do a wonderful job, and distribute all over the U.S.

If you are interested in finding it at a local retailer, take a look at their website.

Some of my white-wine-loving friends swear that they will only drink reds if it’s a Malbec. So, if you generally aren’t a red wine drinker, I say you take your palate by the reins and introduce it to something new.

Historical information:
Argentinian Malbec Wine: A Guide to the Grape's History and Unique Style
Malbec Wine Grapes' Flavor Character History

Cheese for Breakfast

Caitlin Miller  

Below are the first thoughts that run through my head each morning:

1. What a nice sleep…
2. How can I incorporate some cheese into this day, STAT

Which brings us to: breakfast cheese. Gross, you say? Nothing could be farther from the truth! Cheese is an important part of breakfast dishes around the world, a tradition that is tragically lacking in America. I admit, the thought of digging into a hefty cheese mountain first thing in the AM is not a pleasant prospect, even for me. But while all cheeses are equal, some breakfast cheeses are more equal than others – and the right cheese choice before noon will do wonders for the mind, body, and soul.

Like exercise, eating cheese gives you endorphins, and endorphins make you happy. So why start your day off at a five or six when it could be rocking at a ten? Infusing just a little cheese into your breakfast routine will do this for you. This is not hyperbole; it is fact. Think about the high you get when you eat some mozzarella for dinner, or grilled cheese or pizza for lunch – only masochists feel compelled to deprive themselves of the same rush before noon. Look, your body doesn’t understand the silly taboos associated with eating cheese in the morning. It’s just a piece of hardware wired to understand pleasure and deprivation. And when you deprive your body of cheese because “it’s just not something we usually eat in the morning,” your body won’t be vibrating at as high of a frequency for the rest of the day.

Need more reasons why you should wake up tomorrow morning jazzed about eating some cheese? College is all about working hard and staying humble. Cheese is a perfect way to start your day because it is the very embodiment of humility: it could headline a Broadway play, but instead chooses to work hard on the sidelines, popping in here and there to accent dishes as needed. To paraphrase a quote by Saint Augustine: “You plan a tower that will pierce the clouds? Lay first the foundation of humility [by eating cheese for breakfast].” By the transitive property of “you are what you eat,” consuming cheese at breakfast gives us the perfect opportunity to meditate on those qualities we too hope to exercise throughout the day.

As I mentioned earlier, an issue that does sometimes arise with breakfast cheese is the question of density. The answer is simple: keep it light. And I’m not talking about cream cheese, which is listed in the dictionary as a synonym of ‘meh,’ which is a synonym of boring. Cheese is the food of the people, but it is all about indulging the whimsy and classiness in all of us: so none of this déclassé, middlebrow bullshit – let’s get creative. Over break I had a delicious goat cheese and spinach omelet. Goat cheese, the cheese equivalent of a cumulous cloud, delivers a lot of flavor and is a great way to subtly pack the cheese into an early morning meal. Another great option is Brie – slice some Brie finely and eat with a chopped apple or pear, and take your tastebuds on a one-way trip to Flavortown. Or, if you’re feeling especially frisky, a fresh ricotta cheese with honey is light, inhumanly delicious, and, most importantly, filling enough to get you to lunch with a smile on your face.

In short, there are two types of people in the world: those that enjoy cheese with breakfast, and fascists. Just kidding! But in all seriousness, if you find yourself in that first category, you’re doing it right; and if not, it’s never too late to learn!

Extreme Makeover: Spicy Tuna Edition

Maddie LaKind  

It’s official. The infamous Midwest, mid-winter funk has cast a cloud over the city of Ann Arbor. With all of this snowy rain, cold slush, and oh so much gray I think its safe to say that the charm of that long-awaited and short-lived white Christmas is officially over. Fortunately, in the midst of such a miserable weather rut, there are sprinklings of new local restaurants that are adding a needed pop of sunshine to our dreary city climate.

The one place recently hovering on my foodie radar is Isalita, the follow up restaurant from the managers of the still ever-popular Mani Osteria. Situated right next door to its Italian counterpart, Isalita approaches food in a similar light to Mani but instead of Italian, shifts its focus to Mexican—a cuisine that has maintained marginal representation in Ann Arbor for years (I’m sorry, but Tios and Chipotle just don’t cut it for me). Focusing on small, but intensely flavorful plates for sharing, Isalita tackles the classics like nachos, tacos, and fried plantains, emphasizing excellent quality and flavor.

After having paid three visits to this charming establishment since my return from winter break, I am a newly converted fan. While I will admit that a number of their items could use improvement—bland tortilla soup, overly smooth/untextured guacamole, and one-noted tacos—the spicy tuna ceviche is a dish I haven’t been able to shake from my mind.

Composed of small pieces of raw fish marinated in citrus juice and other accompaniments, ceviche has garnered a reputation as one of the best ways to enjoy seafood in its absolute purest form. Given the love/hate status so commonly linked to raw fish, I know this dish will not appeal to all. However, for all you adamant anti-raw eaters out there, just listen.

Starting with a simple base of uber-fresh, diced briny tuna, the chef crafts this dish like a fine painting, adding layers upon layers of flavor until exceptionally balanced and complex. Chopped green mangos give the dish a tart, sweet flavor. Toasted coconut adds warmth and nuttiness. Pickled onions add a vinegary, acidic bite. Serrano chile adds heat and crunch. And finally, lime juice serves as the binder of the whole dish, adding that unparalleled tang and brightness of citrus.

On par with the tropical flavor profile is the symphony of textures on this plate. Starting on the fish front, the raw tuna steak is just unctuous enough, maintaining a nice firmness while still indulgently fatty. Tacking on the softness of the mango and pickled onion and the crunch of raw chile and toasted coconut, you couldn’t ask for a better mother load combination.

So if this so-called “winter” weather is leading you to the dark side, treat yourself to a night out and give Isalita a visit. Whether it’s the ceviche or any of their other notable dinner offerings/cocktails, you’ll instantly feel transported from this snowy, rainy hell and straight to a far away place filled with sunshine, palm trees, tequila, tortilla chips, warmth, and sun!

Isalita 341A E. Liberty St. Ann Arbor, MI 48104

It’s Not Just Red or White: Carménère

Lizzy Freed  

Every bottle of wine tells a story. It’s amazing to think that each one is unique, emitting its own experience and flavor. Though subtle, these differences form a special relationship between wine and drinker.

Wine has a rich history that goes as deep as its flavor. We all have a favorite wine (or three) for different reasons. I would like to introduce a close friend of mine, who goes by the name of Carménère. Although it is not my favorite wine to drink (though close), I do find it to have the most interesting history.

I won’t dive too far into the past, because it is a topic worthy of many more words, but let’s begin with the onset of the phylloxera louse, which devastated the vineyards of Europe in the 1870s. This nasty creature was inadvertently taken from America to Europe on the grape vines for experimental purposes: Europeans wanted to see if these American vines would flourish in their soil. Unbeknownst to them, the American vines were immune to this louse—European vines were not. Such is life! But, as my mother always says: when the going gets tough, the tough gets going! And that they did. Botanists discovered that they could take the European varietals (Vitis vinifera) and grow them on top of the American rootstock.

In all of this madness, this disaster, many vines and livelihoods were lost. Most varietals were saved, but some, including Carménère, were thought to be extinct.

Meanwhile, the wine industry was beginning to boom. Globalization, which hurt many during this period, was helping to spread the allure of viticulture.

Our South American gem this evening, Chile, has a thrilling wine history. Its shining glory is Carménère. Presumed gone forever by horticulturists around the globe, the wine world was shocked by a discovery made by French botanist Jean-Michel Boursiquot: Carménère was alive. The leaf shape is extremely similar to that of a Merlot plant, and so they had understandably misidentified it for years. The Chilean growers had unknowingly been aiding in the reunion of this special grape with the world.

Chile is a very isolated country, with the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Andes mountains on the other. This created a natural barrier from the horrors the rest of the world experienced with phylloxera.

Like Malbec to Argentina, Carménère quickly became an important part of Chile’s culture. They are understandably very proud of their discovery. Their wine industry has become increasingly competitive in the world market, partially thanks to this somewhat fickle grape.

Carménère is a lively wine. Seriously, that is the best way to describe it. It wakes up your taste buds with bright fruit flavors that just don’t exist in most wines. Its South American sister, Malbec, has this fruit-forward taste as well but in a sweeter and less exciting way. Carménère is often described as having plum, blackberry, and pepper flavors.

Another great thing about Carménère is the price, which is a common plus to buying Chilean wines. Though they are some of the most competitive in the market, they never break your bank. Some may say it’s because Chileans don’t know just how impressive the world thinks their wine is, but I think it says a lot about their culture. To me, it says, “we want everyone to enjoy our wine, and lots of it.”

I highly recommend Viña Concha y Toro’s version. It is always a safe way to go, as it comes by way of Chile’s biggest international distributor. So grab a glass and enjoy Carménère the way Chileans do: Bakán!