Basque Country

Emily Kastl  

If paella and bocadillos in Madrid weren’t enough to satiate your appetite for Spanish cuisine, you’re in for a treat! The next destination on our walking tour is Basque Country. This region, in the northern corner of the Iberian Peninsula, takes its culinary influences from a variety of areas. Near the coast you’re likely to find fresh seafood, but once you cross over the mountains (and by cross, I mean walk—something I had the exhausting “privilege” of doing) and move inland, you’ll come across cured meats and legumes. Not only is the food of Basque country unique, but so are the people; instead of speaking Spanish they speak Basque. You can imagine my surprise at being immersed in yet another language I didn’t know. The list is up to two, in case you’re counting.
My food-hangover from Madrid turned into a literal illness shortly after we started walking the Camino de Santiago (our 500 mile pilgramage originating in the 10th century); apparently gulping water from a mountain “drinking fountain” is a good way to get the stomach flu. Therefore, I am sad to report my first Basque cuisine experience was less than ideal. And of course I had to become deathly ill while we were in an awesome town with lots of sight-seeing opportunities: Pamplona. With my culinary quest in mind, I mustered my last bit of strength to head out for lunch. Unfortunately, such a festive experience as lunch in Pamplona at a traditional Cideria (cider mill) became a spectator sport for me. I looked on as my group members had some of the most delicious looking fish, pasta, and salads I have ever seen. I also observed as they retrieved “sidra” (cider) from a giant tapped barrel and enjoyed the good cheer that comes along with Basque cider. “Good cheer” from cider, you may be asking? The Basque people let their cider ferment for one month in order to let the natural sugars found in the apples turn into alcohol. There’s your good cheer.

Here are some of my group members collecting “sidra” in Pamplona

Once I was able to recover a little from “Santiago’s Revenge,” I was eager to get in on the food fun that all of my group members were having. Since I had been surviving on Aquarius (Spain’s version of Gatorade) and bread for a week, I couldn’t wait for some actual substance and to embrace all Basque country had to offer. Here’s what one of my first meals after coming back to life looked like:

This plate was Basque food in a nut shell…or chickpea? Since we were inland, we saw more meats than seafood and had lots of stewed vegetables. What struck me most about Basque food was its simplicity. Rather than spicing everything to death, they accentuate the natural flavors of the ingredients. I mean, this plate looks pretty simple, right? Meat, potatoes, veggies-it’s got all the basics, and that’s the best part.
As I tried to ignore the fact that my body still wasn’t too keen on eating solid foods, I was lucky to have a welcomed distraction: pintxos. These little guys are the Basque version of tappas and are to die for. No matter what you’re in the mood for, there’s a good chance you will find something to satisfy your cravings…and in mini form! That’s the joy of pintxos—they’re small so there’s lots of room for sampling. Staked on top of a small piece of bread, you’ll find a wide variety of toppings: cured meats, fish, tortilla de español (egg and potato quiche), and croquettes, which are my personal favorite. What can be better than a small fried roll stuffed with mashed potatoes and cheese? They’re served best while watching a soccer match at a local bar.

Croquettes

I hope your feet aren’t too tired yet! Next time, our walking tour of Spanish cuisine takes us to the region of Galicia. Get ready for Celtic traditions, witches, bagpipes, and some of the best seafood on this earth.