It's Not Just Red or White: Malbec

Lizzy Freed  

After exploring Carménère, it’s only fitting that we look at its biggest South American competitor: Malbec.

Now it isn’t that these two wines are competitive. Rather, it’s the countries. Chile and Argentina are home to some of the best wines in the world, and they both know it. However, there is no denying that the Argentines really have mastered their Malbec.

Although I am focusing on the South American version of this varietal, a brief history will show that its roots go much deeper than just Mendoza.

A French agronomist named Miguel Pouget brought cuttings of this hearty grape to Argentina in 1868, as the local population was trying to better their wine production. The grape flourished—the altitude helped to fully develop the somewhat picky grape without over-ripening or rotting. It also added complexity at different elevations, which produced different flavors that could then be blended to produce unique, but still 100%, Malbec varietals (Hello, Mendoza!).

Malbec was originally used to blend with other varietals in the Bordeaux region of France, and infrequently left to its own accords. The blight of phylloxera certainly didn’t help its popularity, and few vineyards attempted to revamp their product in France. To make matters even worse, there was a horrible frost in 1956 that really halted its production. Growers then decided to switch to safer varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. It is still produced in its raw, unblended form in Cahors, a town in Southwestern France, and many other wineries use it for blends.

So let’s talk more about these flavors. The drinking is where it really gets fun (unless of course you’re learning the history while sipping!). Malbec is usually described as having dark berry flavors, such as blackberries and currants. It has some spice as well: cinnamon, nutmeg, or black pepper. You can find some—in fact, you should seek some—that are a little earthier, with flavors like wet sand or dirt. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it.

It’s a great wine to sip on solo, but arguably better paired with grilled or spicy food, especially meats. The deep flavor and crisp acidity are nicely contrasted with a charcoal taste you’ll get with grilled pork. It’s also good with pasta dishes; I recommend trying a spicy tomato sauce with tortellini, as I like the strong wine to have a strong dish to stand up to. If you’re a cheese lover, Malbec washes down a hard manchego really well.

As far as prices go, Malbec is generally quite reasonable. It’s still growing in popularity, and thus isn’t as overpriced as some of the veteran varietals. As for recommendations, I would try anything from Argentina. If it’s from Mendoza, you shouldn’t be disappointed. I’ve been able to find some cheap, and quite tasty, Malbec at the local grocer. One I would buy again is the Cupcake brand: They do a wonderful job, and distribute all over the U.S.

If you are interested in finding it at a local retailer, take a look at their website.

Some of my white-wine-loving friends swear that they will only drink reds if it’s a Malbec. So, if you generally aren’t a red wine drinker, I say you take your palate by the reins and introduce it to something new.

Historical information:
Argentinian Malbec Wine: A Guide to the Grape's History and Unique Style
Malbec Wine Grapes' Flavor Character History