Maddie LaKind
London baby—home of bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, scones, tea time, and, most famously, fish & chips. While the states have tried to master this deceptively simple recipe, most knock-offs pale in comparison, all lacking that certain London “it” factor that makes it so addicting.
Last week, however, on a pre-Thanksgiving romp around Kerrytown, all my pre-conceived notions of this British specialty took a permanent turn for the better after stumbling upon Monahan’s Seafood in Sparrow Market. Having strolled past this tiny, family-run market on countless grocery runs, I was slightly disappointed and confused as to why I had never paid a visit there before. I love fish, I love shellfish, and I love a good, down-home, small business. According to my mental math, I should have dove into the menu here months, even years ago.
Primarily functioning as a fish market, but shadowing as a food stand during lunch, Monahan’s provides probably the best fish and seafood selection of any spot in town. From stunningly colorful red snapper, to prickly sea urchins, tiny clams, and luxury items like king crab legs and lobster tail, this place has it all and a lovely, welcoming staff to boot. Given their elite specialty market status, they offer a very brief window for restaurant hours – 11-3pm – and, with only five or six tables in the joint, you have to be a bit strategic about your lunchtime game plan.
I was not so wise about my game plan this first go-around, ending up plopped right in the middle of the local lunch rush. However, the wait only added to the experience, allowing more time for my foodie senses to soak up everything. With the roar of the bustling crowd, the clinking of cold beers, the briny smell of the ocean, the sight of open displays of the day’s best items, and case upon case of fresh, fishy offerings, I felt like I had been transported to the famous Pike Place Market in Seattle; a true departure from my Ann Arbor reality.
Following a brief glimpse at the menu, I eagerly settled on none other than the fish & chips—one of the most genius comfort foods ever invented. Made with North Atlantic pollack–similar to a cod or whitefish–the modest fish filet is dipped in a beer batter and deep-fried until golden. The fries are traditional English style, thick cut, fried crispy, and liberally salted. The dish is served on a paper plate–super casual–with fries on the bottom, fish on top, and a side of tartar sauce. That’s it.
After tracking down a table in the outdoor courtyard, and hardly able to contain my excitement, I dove right in. Eaten all together, this dish is paradise for any fish or fried food aficionado. Blanketed under all that beer-battered goodness, the pollack maintains a delightfully moist and tender texture, as well as a lightness that only comes from truly fresh seafood.
Combined with the crunch of the batter, the salty, earthiness of the chips, and the tangy, lemony, creaminess of the tartar sauce, this dish leaves a very strong impression. It’s been over a week now since my first visit, and I still salivate at the thought of another one of those glorious plates.
This past semester while abroad in Europe, I ate my first authentic fish and chips in London on a weekend trip with my roommates. At the time, I thought I had found the best of the best—who could top fish and chips outside of its very own country of origin? Monahan’s…that’s who. Maybe the Midwest will never hold the same seafood legacy as London but it’s a comfort to know that Ann Arbor is home to a special kind of fish shop full of welcoming faces, great values, and truly divine eats!
Monahan's Seafood Market 407 N. 5th Ave. Ann Arbor, MI 48104
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