Hail Caesar

Maddie LaKind  

I love Mani Osteria—simple as that. I love everything about the place. The sleek yet rustic décor, the soft mood lighting, the smoky smell of the wood-fired oven, the open-air kitchen, and, of course, the beautiful Italian offerings they produce with consistency and panache. Ever since its opening in 2011, I have grown more and more infatuated with this establishment, using any special occasion or parental weekend as an opportunity for a visit.

The thing that sets Mani apart from most Ann Arbor restaurants is that it is nearly impossible to find a flop on the menu, seriously. In the 8+ visits I’ve paid to this place, I still have yet to eat something truly disappointing. Specializing in small plates for sharing, Mani—meaning “handmade” in Italian—prepares each dish lovingly and artfully, creating a feast for both the stomach and the eyes; the perfect combination for all those crazy Instagram-armed, foodie diners out there.

Having spent a semester abroad in Florence, Italy this past year, I have to admit that I have become a bit of an Italian food snob since my return to the states. Gelato will never maintain the same, luscious texture here and pizza/pasta will never taste as good as when it comes straight out of a tiny trattoria kitchen. However, let me say, for American-Italian food, Mani attains elite status in my book. Its modest one-page menu, while lacking in flash, embodies everything that Italians revere in their cuisine; high quality, fresh ingredients, bold flavors, and the ability to share your meal with family and friends.

While I have worked my way through a sizeable chunk of the menu, the Caesar salad remains my go to dish. Unlike most horrific renditions of this pseudo-Italian creation—which typically consists of some combination of water-logged, flavorless romaine lettuce, hockey-puck tough croutons overly coated in artificial herbs/spices, minimal shavings of parmesan (or some sort of parmesan-imposter) cheese, and an overly thick, salt-laden dressing—Mani’s exemplifies the beauty of how a simple recipe and superb ingredients can elevate a dish from normal to extraordinary.

From the bottom-up, this salad begins with a nice mound of well-chopped, crisp romaine. Next come tiny flecks of meaty white anchovy. If you think or already know you’re anti-anchovy, I would encourage you to put your predisposition aside and give it a try. The taste is more salty and briney rather than that super “fishy” taste that tends to chase people away. A handful of nutty parmigiano reggiano cheese follows suit, spread out perfectly like a light blanket of cheesy snow. Everything then gets coated in a light, traditional Caesar dressing of finely chopped anchovy, lemon juice, olive oil, and lots of freshly ground black pepper.

Seems pretty basic thus far right? Well get ready, because unlike most Caesar salads, which actually include a raw egg yolk in the dressing, Mani chooses to go the deep-fried route instead, omitting the egg from the dressing entirely and frying it up as a garnish. I ask you, is there anything better than a soft, luscious fried egg with a perfectly crunchy exterior to boost your salad to the next level? Not really, except for maybe two or three eggs instead of just one. A girl can dream can’t she?

Mani cooks their egg just enough to soften the whites, while still retaining a velvety texture. When pierced with a fork, the striking golden yolk remains delightfully runny and unctuous, creating a second dressing of sorts. When looked at as a whole, this salad is a brilliant display of harmonious opposites uniting to create a flawlessly balanced bite. Salty and fresh + rich and light + crunchy and silky = sheer perfection.

So whether you think salads are a waste of a meal or are merely disillusioned with the normally mediocre Caesar, I urge you to pay Mani a visit. I’ve yet to talk to one person who has had a negative experience here, and in a town as food-centric as Ann Arbor, that’s saying a lot. So head on over, have a glass of wine, enjoy the swank, city vibe, nosh on some small plates, indulge in gelato and espresso, laugh with friends, and, most importantly, viva Italia!

Mani Osteria 341 E Liberty St, Ann Arbor, MI 48104